water wave theory

Water wave theory describes how waves on the surface of water move and behave. These waves are created by wind, storms, or other disturbances. They consist of oscillations, where water moves up and down, while the wave travels forward. The energy of the wave can transport across distances, though the water itself mainly cycles in place. Waves vary in size and shape, influenced by factors like wind speed and water depth. Understanding these principles helps in areas like navigation, coastal engineering, and surfing, as well as predicting wave patterns and their impact on shorelines.