
Stokes' Wave Theory
Stokes' Wave Theory describes how gravity waves behave on the surface of deep water, especially when the waves are large and not perfectly regular. Developed by Sir George Stokes, the theory improves upon simple wave models by accounting for nonlinear effects, such as wave steepness and height. It provides mathematical formulas to predict wave shape, speed, and energy. This helps in understanding phenomena like rogue waves and designing ships and offshore structures to withstand such conditions, making it valuable for oceanography and maritime engineering.