shallow water waves

Shallow water waves occur in water that is relatively shallow compared to their wavelength. This means that the depth of the water is less than half the wavelength of the wave. As these waves move, they interact more with the bottom of the body of water, affecting their speed and shape. Typical examples include waves in oceans near the shore, where they can become taller and break as they reach shallower areas. Understanding shallow water waves is essential for coastal management, navigation, and predicting wave behavior in surf zones.