shallow water theory

Shallow water theory describes the behavior of waves and fluid flow where the water depth is small relative to the wavelength. In this situation, the flow can be simplified because the vertical movement is minimal, and horizontal movements dominate. This theory helps us understand phenomena like tides, tsunamis, and waves near coastlines by providing equations that relate wave speed, water depth, and flow. It assumes the water is incompressible and non-viscous, allowing for more manageable calculations of how waves travel and interact with the seabed and shoreline.