
Boussinesq theory
Boussinesq theory describes how small waves travel in shallow water where the water depth is much less than the wavelength. It simplifies the complex equations of fluid motion to focus on the balance between gravity and inertia, allowing for the prediction of wave behavior like speed and height. This theory is useful for modeling coastal phenomena such as tsunamis and tidal waves, providing a practical way to understand how waves propagate and interact with coastal regions without solving overly complicated mathematical models.